FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Yes, but this depends heavily on the installation. To optimize durability, the subfloor or base on which the tiling will be glued must be flat, stable, and without irregularities. Depending on the dimensions of each tile, the proper mortar must be used. For larger pieces, manufacturers recommend double gluing on the subfloor and the back of the tile. Generally, carefully following the manufacturers' recommendations is always the best thing to do.
Of course, you will need to know the area of the space. But you should also plan to start with more than the exact number of tiles that will fill the area, due to breaks and cutouts. Generally, adding 5 to 7% in surplus to account for cut loss is sufficient if the environment is simple (square or rectangular with few cutouts). If the plan is diagonal or if the environment has a distinctive or organic shape, then many pieces will have to be cut at the corners. In these scenarios, it is important to provide a surplus of up to 15% to avoid material deficit during installation.
Virtually any floor tile can be installed on the wall, though in most cases, it is not appropriate to switch them. Consult the installer or product manufacturer for application recommendations.
Usually, yes, but only if the surface below has been installed correctly and is not broken or experiencing any problems, such as stuffing. However, this is generally not the smartest option, and though initially cost-saving may later incur higher costs. Keep in mind that overlapping floors will slightly decrease the height of the room, and that the doors will have to be altered to open normally.
To know whether or not a tile is non-slip, it is important to know its dynamic friction coefficient, which is an index of slip resistance. The higher the number, the more 'non-slip' the piece. Each country has its own norm in this regard. In Brazil, for example, manufacturers follow the Brazilian standard of 13818/97, which divides parts into two classes:
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Class I - Coefficient less than 0.4 - Indoor areas only;
Class II - Coefficient greater than or equal to 0.4 - Can be used outdoors and are safer for shower stalls, for example.
For straight cuts, a special tool is generally used that scratches and then cuts the tile, creating a clean cut and good finish. For other details or clippings, a disk saw can be used. It is important to use the proper disc for a satisfactory finish on the tile. To create holes, the ideal method is to hire a specialized technical team to avoid cracking.
Yes, but not all paints work. In the case of highly waterproof and smooth surfaces, the paint should be highly adhesive. It is also necessary to prepare the base, following the directions of the product packaging.